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How to spot greenwashing

© Photography David Cliff/Getty Images

If you haven’t already, read our Greenwashing 101 blog post >>>

Nuw founder Aisling caught up with the brilliant Amy Nguyen from Sustainable and Social on Instagram Live, to find out how to see beyond the green screen and find out the truth.

1. Focus on numbers, not words

Look for solid stats and figures to support a brand’s grand claims. Quantifiable goals achieved; money committed; the percentage of their products actually made from recycled materials – anything less vague than ‘sustainably-made’.

Consider the bigger picture too. ASOS’ new Circular Collection may have launched amid a load of fanfare, but it only makes up 0.035% of the brand’s overall stock. Let’s be real – that’s barely a drop in the ocean.

2. Look for a seal of approval

The best sustainability claims are backed up by industry-standard certifications – like the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) or Oeko-Tex for fabrics, Fairwear Foundation for ethical employment practises and B Corp for companies that balance purpose with profit.

Even these systems aren’t always watertight; the Better Cotton Initiative recently suspended sourcing in the Xinjiang region of China after revelations about forced labour among the Uighur Muslim population. But generally speaking, accreditation means someone impartial is keeping track.

3. Beware vegan-washing too

Despite often being lumped in with sustainable options, ‘vegan’ alternatives to natural animal materials are often just plastic by a fancier name.

Of course, everyone has their own personal set of priorities – but check what your faux leather and wool is made from, and how easily it can be recycled or broken down. Plant-based fibres like piñatex, Tencel and Weganool are a better way to go.

4. Do your homework

Thankfully there are apps to do some of the number crunching for us. Good On You and Ethical Consumer both provide at-a-glance ratings that take into account a brand’s treatment of people, planet and animals. Some of the verdicts might surprise you.

5. Don’t take ‘natural’ for granted

While it’s true that natural fibres biodegrade much faster than synthetics like polyester, it doesn’t guarantee that they’ve been farmed cleanly or fairly.

Cotton is a problematic fave as it often uses vast amounts of water and toxic pesticides to grow, and there are a whole heap of humanitarian problems associated with its farming and harvesting. Look for certified organic sources to make sure your fabric is produced as nature intended.

6. Support the all-rounders

All too often, we see brands focus on eco-friendly innovation while still exploiting garment workers behind the scenes. Or big up their charity work while failing to address their wasteful business models. No company can be perfect overnight, but true sustainability needs to take into account everyone at every step of the supply chain.

So try to invest in brands with a holistic approach that covers ethics from all angles. That includes paying staff living wages, minimising waste, inclusive sizing and diverse marketing too.

7. Take transparency with a pinch of salt

Transparency is an important tenet of sustainability, but it’s only step one. Amy points out that brands can be called ‘transparent’ for disclosing the greenhouse gas emissions of their head office and retail stores, but that doesn’t account for their supply chains.

“How many brands are disclosing that kind of information?” she says. “Very few, because very few actually have that insight.”

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8. If in doubt, ask

It stands to reason that if a company isn’t telling you something, they probably don’t want you to know. But asking for the hard facts behind the wafty language is one of the best ways to hold them accountable.

Amy recommends becoming a keyboard warrior to put pressure on brands, and challenge them to back up their greenwashing claims. “The more people do it, the more it’ll be on their radar,” she says.

Finally, she reminds us: “You cast your vote with your wallet. Everything you purchase reflects your values and your beliefs. Don’t get me wrong – nobody is perfect. But it’s about educating yourself and using the knowledge that is out there.”

They say knowledge is power. And when it comes to seeing through the greenwash, it’s the most powerful accessory we can have.